Vintage Favorite Belongings

 

 

This dress was my great grandmother’s. She lived until she was 96. She lived out in the woods in Clarksville County, Ga. in a small cabin. She had lovely long blondish white hair until she moved to the old folks home at 95.   She liked to collect antique salt and pepper shakers. I have a few of these in the photos here. I admired how she lived, so in touch with the land and wilderness. She used to send me out with a bucket for me to pick berries, then when I returned she’d bake a pie. I thought she was very strong and independent to live out there for so long after her husband died. The land she lived on was beautiful and remote.

 

vintage dresses

 

This is me wearing the dress when I was about twenty.  I still have this dress but I can’t quite fit into it anymore.  I also have this beautiful wall hanging that my mother gave me of my great grandmother’s bed sheet from when she first got married.  Back then it was customary for a family member to embroider a bed sheet for the newlyweds.  This bed sheet is from the early 1900’s.  One of these days if I get some better lightening in here I might repost a picture of this.  I didn’t want to turn on my Japanese lamp near it since it reflects  in the glass.  As I have said before my apartment is a mix of old and new.  So the mix is eclectic.vintage embrodiery

In the early eighties I used to sell vintage clothing to small shops. I walked around with a shopping cart and went door to door.  New York did not have so many corporate stores back then. Canal Jeans usually had a small boat outside their store that was filled with vintage dresses for one dollar. I used to buy many of those and do minor repairs before I resold them. I also went to flea markets all around town and sometimes Pennsylvania to buy antique dresses and items.

I once found an authentic flapper dress from the twenties! It fit my tiny frame so I wore it dancing at the Ritz after working on securing some of the beading. After that I had it dry cleaned and resold it for $100, which was a fraction of what I paid for it. I am sure the vendor resold it for much more at their own antique stall at a vintage market.

 

This little glass lamb has got to be from the 1940’s.  When my father was a small boy his mother told him he could have it “if he was good at the dental office.”  The little dolls were also his.  The vase of the woman with the basket was in our kitchen window when I was growing up.  The Dresden vase was a gift from a friend’s friend before he went into a retirement home.  He wanted to make sure his belonging would be appreciated.  Its a lovely vase, most Dresden vases were destroyed during the war.

This antique jewelry box was in my mother’s sweetheart’s family for a very long time.  The colors in it are so pretty.  The little glass hand holder for rings and the bird plate are things I found when shopping for vintage or thrifting.  The antique brooch and the letter A handkerchief belonged to my grandmother on my father’s side.  The antique handkerchiefs I have collected through the years.

 

 

 

These salt and pepper shakers were part of my great grandmother’s collection.  I also have one of her sweaters.  I will wear it in a later post when I have a friend handy to take a picture of me.  The glass vase with flowers is something I found years ago.  The antique clock is something my mother gave me from our five years of living in Germany when I was little.  The green yarn doll was mine since I was about seven.  My mother made it.

 

My mother bought this lovely lamp when I was about twelve.  I always wanted it “someday” so she gave it to me when she left New York to move to Florida.  I took a picture of it in the evening when the room was fairly dark to share with you the lovely glow it scatters on the wall when its lit in the evening. I also took one in the daylight just so you could see the lamp itself better.  My mother spray painted it an antique gold.  I really love this piece and sometimes at night I just sit and look at it for awhile.

 

The jewelry box above that looks like ivory carved with roses all over it isn’t real ivory.  Its a lovely piece and something I have had since I was a little girl.  I found the golden crocheted doily below the lamp at a thrift shop in Pensacola, Florida when I was visiting my family.  I also have an antique printers block  that was given to me by a friend years ago.  I hang crystals and little collectibles in it.  I remember when these used to be filled with type set pieces from when I was a child.  My father was a journalist.  Many a night I had to wait at the newspaper late for him to finish work.  I remember watching the men set the type for the next mornings’  newspapers.

I treasure these pieces that were passed down to me in my family and through friends.   I really haven’t bought too many other pieces of house ware knick knack items since I am too busy reusing the old.  Generally I have lived in one or two bedroom apartments and am currently in a large studio since my daughter grew up.  So I hang onto these pieces which cuts down on needing to buy more.  I wouldn’t have room for more pieces right now.  I have a lot of artwork.  Some of it is mine and some from friends, or my daughter Emily.  I have several more pieces however most of them are glassware and dishes.  I will save them for another post.  I hope you enjoyed my collection of collectibles!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Book Review: ‘Overdressed’:The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth Cline

Recently I read Elizabeth Cline’s book Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.  She was driven to explore what is going on behind the scenes of all the mass production.  She traveled to China, Bangladesh, the Dominican Republic, Los Angeles, and the garment district in NY.  Elizabeth visited several foreign factories and “told them I owned a company called Fashion Forward Inc., which of course I don’t, and printed up light pink business cards from my home computer with my apartment address and phone number.  I put together a “line” of cheap fashion out of my own closet in order to ask the factories how much it would cost to produce my garments with each of them. I crossed my fingers that the language barrier would help me fudge the rest.”

She explores and encourages us to question where our clothing comes from, how it is made, and what choices we have about how we choose to shop.  She  writes about the fashion industry and how “Most mass market clothing is now so poorly made and ordinary that many consumers intuit that it’s not worth much money.”

When I was a child I remember how most of my clothing was made by my grandmothers or my mother.  Women sewed on a regular basis.  Back then it was often cheaper to make your own clothing, plus you could choose the quality of your clothing by sewing it.  I remember one of my grandmothers telling me when I was an adolescent that before I bought any article of clothing I should test the seams, “pull at them and make sure they are secure.” Many of today mass marketed clothing is so cheaply made that if you pull the seams they may start to unravel.  I know for myself this is one of the main reasons I choose to shop at thrift stores.  For the money I want to spend I can find better quality of clothing in a thrift store.  The person who owned the clothing before me could afford to buy the brands and quality that I like, so I may as well enjoy their castoffs.

It is easy enough to fall into consuming too much, more than we need in general. There may be times when we haven’t stopped to be more “conscious” about our choices.  This is what Elizabeth explores. Along the way she brings up various options available to us.  She writes about the current trend of fast fashion in the US.  “Fast fashion consumers, not surprisingly, shop more than other consumers.  A lot more.”  Many chain stores now are thriving from this fast fashion cycle.  Customers return numerous times throughout the year, far more than in the days of four season shopping cycles.  Designers are under tremendous pressure, which Elizabeth also explores in her book.  The entire fashion industry has gone though tremendous changes.  The United States has set a perilous precedent in its shopping habits.  Now China is picking up on our shopping frenetic energy and they are also in the throws of their own fast fashion cycle of buying, mass production for themselves and everything that follows.  It really is time to start thinking about how this cycle effects all of us, if you haven’t been thinking about it previously.

“In her book she states “Every year, Americans throw away 12.7 million tons, or 68 pounds of textiles per person, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, which also estimates that 1.6 million tons of this waste could be recycled or reused.” (1)

I personally don’t buy that much but it’s a terrifying thought to realize that many people do.  All of this environmentally takes a toll on our planet.  She also explains how so much of the clothing that goes into thrift shops doesn’t necessarily stay there.  It is still a good idea to donate to thrift stores, however they eventually have to give the clothing to textiles recyclers down the line.  The recyclers can use much of the clothing but not necessarily all of it.  So if we consume too much we risk increasing waste.  Even the clothing that gets shipped to third world countries have changing fashion scenes.  The clothing being outsourced there may or may not be used as we think it will be.

The dyes used to produce clothing also present problems.  Elizabeth states “China, where 10 percent of the world’s textiles are now produced, is an environmental disaster.”  She describes   how she suffered a sinus infection that lasted for months after visiting in China’s Gaundong Province in 20011. The pollution was horrendous.   She also writes” China’s garment industry operates on an intimidating scale.  It’s several times bigger than any garment industry that’s happened anywhere in the world at any point in history.  They have more than 40,000 clothing manufacturer’s and 15 million garment industry jobs.  (2)  Compare that to the 1.45 million garment and industry jobs the United States had at peak employment some 40 years ago. “(3)

She goes on to describe how China’s economy is flourishing while the United States has been going through years of suffering.  Thousands of garment workers in the US have lost jobs.  Currently in China manufacturers   are encouraging their people to buy what is made in their own country.  This is driving the cost of production in China higher and making China’s economy stronger.  All of this is food for thought as we can be invited to further examine our own choices of our own spending habits.

We could choose to buy clothing made only in the United States.  We could choose to just consume less and be more mindful of where things are made. We could choose to sew all our clothing, or thrift, buy vintage, trade or choose a combination of these alternatives.

Elizabeth interviewed a woman in Los Angeles, CA who had worked in the garment industry for many years.  The woman told her “Most of the garment workers in LA she knows put in ten-hour days and work six days a week making countless garments just so they can drag their earnings up to minimum wage.”  Most of the workers “are paid per finished garment (known as piece work).”  So “Made in the USA “ also has its oxymorons.  One factory Elizabeth visited Alta Gracia, in the Dominican Republic produces basic clothing for colleges.  Their garment workers get paid “a living wage” so their workers have much better opportunities available to them.

Elizabeth goes on to write about the Slow Fashion movement.  A designer in Brooklyn, Sarah Kate Beaumont has been sewing all her clothing since the summer of 2008.  Beaumont teaches sewing lessons as well and has a blog called Very Sweet Life.  Beaumont states “Home sewn garments, similar to home cooked foods, are made with care and sustenance.  In a sense clothing can be nourishing.”    Elizabeth signed up for sewing lessons and became very excited about sewing.  In the long run she chose to use sewing mostly for repairing and altering her clothing.

The term “Slow Fashion” was coined in 2007 by Kate Fletcher in 2007.  Fletcher is a designer with the Centre of Sustainable Fashion in the UK.  Slow Fashion is not a seasonal trend that comes and goes like animal print, but a sustainable fashion movement that is gaining momentum.”  Slow Fashion encourages us to think about quality over quantity, to question where garments come from and to be conscious of our part in the impact of our choices on the environment.

I strongly recommend Elizabeth Cline’s Book “Overdressed- the High Cost of Cheap Fashion” to those who wish to learn more about mass production of garments.  It is well worth the time it takes to read.   It will open your perspective to various options and allow you to feel more comfortable about your choices down the road.  You might even be inclined to learn to sew!

 

Footnotes:

(1). Jana Hawley, “Sustainable Fashion: Why now? A Conversation Exploring Issues, Practices, and Possiblities,” Economic Impact of Textile and Clothing Recycling (New York: Fairchild Books, 2008):207-32.

(2). George Wehrfritz and Alexandra A. Seno, Succeeding at Sewing,” Newsweek, January 10, 2005.

(3). Standard & Poor/s January 2011 Industry Surveys, Apparel & Footwear: Retailers & Brands.

 

 

Antique Button Bracelets

I upcycled some antique buttons to make three quirky and fun bracelets.  I found the information in Retro Revamp by Jennifer Knapp.

You will need:

“6 inches of black elastic ½ wide or wider

25 or 50 buttons (depending on the size of your wrist and the size of the buttons)

Needle and black thread.

  1. Measure your wrist, adding an inch for overlap, and cut the elastic to size.  Sew the ends of the elastic together by overlapping one side with the other by about half an inch.
  2. Sew the buttons to the band, knotting the thread on the inside of the band.  Tie off each button individually so the elastic will still be able to stretch.
  3. Entirely encrust the band with buttons so that no elastic is visible.”

I used black DMC 25 embroidery thread to sew the buttons on and sew the elastic closed.  The thread comes in 6 strands which I divided into 3.  I think it is softer than one thick strand of black thread and easier to work with.  The bracelet takes a while to make.  I sewed a few buttons on every day while watching a movie or hanging out with friends.

 The other charm bracelet I made using metal and glass toggle buttons.  These have a different backing which is why they are called toggle buttons.  They have one opening on the back instead of two or four holes like regular buttons. You would need jump rings, needle nose pliers and chain to make this bracelet.  The instructions are also in the Retro Revamp book.

I especially like to wear my elastic button bracelet with a black solid or black polka dress and a red sweater.  The cheerful, colorful buttons brighten any outfit and are a conversation piece.  I have received a lot of compliments on my button bracelets.

I also like to store my antique buttons in recycled honey bear jars.  It gives them a quaint looking little home and makes it easy for me to differentiate them from all my other craft supplies.

The book Retro Revamp has some other fun projects such as decorating a black bustier with buttons, a Zsa –Zsa Jewelry Box,  houseware items you could make or decorate (such as decorating an ugly old chest of drawers) and some cute Pink Posie Envelopes made out of old handkerchiefs.  I have no idea what anyone would do with those.  If I made those I believe I’d use them as a pocket on a dress or skirt to add some detail to the garment.  I could see this book being inspirational for young adults who like vintage and just moved into their first apartment or two.  It has several ideas about making items for the home and decorating things that would be great for someone just starting out on their own. The button bracelets were my favorite idea in the book.